Ryokan Guide: How to Stay in a Traditional Japanese Inn
What a ryokan is, what to expect from tatami rooms, futons, onsen baths and kaiseki dinners, etiquette tips, costs, tattoo policies and how to choose the right ryokan in Japan.
Key takeaways
- A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn with tatami-mat rooms, futons and often onsen hot-spring baths.
- Many ryokan include a multi-course kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast.
- Follow etiquette: remove shoes, wash before bathing, and respect quiet hours.
- Some onsen restrict tattoos; check policies or choose a room with a private bath.
In this guide
- What to expect
- Etiquette tips
- Tattoo policies
- Where to stay in a ryokan
- Costs and booking tips
- Who ryokan suit
- Who may struggle
- A typical ryokan stay, hour by hour
- How to choose a ryokan
- What to wear
- Food and dietary needs
- Combining a ryokan with a city trip
- Budget-friendly alternatives
- Common mistakes to avoid
- The bottom line
Staying at a ryokan is one of the highlights of a trip to Japan. It is more than accommodation: it is an experience of Japanese hospitality, food and bathing culture.
What to expect
| Feature | Description |
|---|---|
| Tatami room | Woven straw mats; remove shoes and slippers before stepping on them |
| Futon | Laid out on the floor by staff in the evening |
| Yukata | Cotton robe to wear around the inn |
| Onsen | Hot-spring baths, communal or private |
| Kaiseki dinner | Multi-course seasonal meal, often served in your room or a dining room |
| Japanese breakfast | Rice, fish, miso soup, pickles |
Etiquette tips
- Remove shoes at the entrance; wear slippers inside, but not on tatami.
- Wash thoroughly before entering the onsen; bathing suits are not worn in communal baths.
- Keep towels out of the bath water.
- Respect meal times; they are set in advance.
- Speak quietly in shared areas.
- Wrap the yukata left over right.
Tattoo policies
Some onsen have historically banned tattoos. Policies are relaxing, and many inns allow covered tattoos or offer private baths (kashikiri). Check before booking.
Where to stay in a ryokan
- Hakone: hot springs, Mount Fuji views, easy from Tokyo.
- Kyoto: traditional city ryokan.
- Kinosaki Onsen: a classic onsen town.
- Takayama and the Japanese Alps.
- Beppu and Kyushu: famous hot springs.
- Tokyo: some ryokan-style inns. See where to stay in Tokyo.
Costs and booking tips
- Prices are often per person and include dinner and breakfast.
- Rooms with private open-air baths cost more.
- Dietary needs should be requested well in advance.
- Check-in times may be fixed to fit meal schedules.
Who ryokan suit
- Couples and honeymooners. See best honeymoon destinations.
- Travellers seeking cultural experiences.
- Food lovers.
Who may struggle
- Travellers who need Western beds (some ryokan offer them).
- Guests with mobility issues (floor sitting and futons).
- Very late arrivals.
A typical ryokan stay, hour by hour
| Time | What happens |
|---|---|
| 3pm | Check in, remove shoes, welcome tea and sweets |
| 4pm | First bath in the onsen |
| 6pm | Kaiseki dinner (in room or dining room) |
| 8pm | Futons laid out while you bathe again or relax |
| 10pm | Quiet hours |
| 7am | Morning bath, sunrise views |
| 8am | Japanese breakfast |
| 10am | Check out |
How to choose a ryokan
- Location: onsen towns for bathing; cities for convenience.
- Room type: traditional tatami only, or a "Japanese-Western" room with beds.
- Bath: communal onsen, private reservable bath, or a private open-air bath in the room.
- Meals: in-room dining is more private; dining rooms are common in larger ryokan.
- Budget: prices often per person including meals; check what is included.
- Accessibility: floor seating and steps may be challenging.
What to wear
You are given a yukata (light robe) and sometimes a haori (jacket) in cooler months. It is perfectly fine to wear the yukata to dinner and around the inn. Wrap left over right; right over left is reserved for funerals.
Food and dietary needs
Kaiseki meals showcase seasonal local ingredients, often with fish and seafood. Vegetarian, vegan and allergy-friendly meals may be possible with advance notice, but options can be limited at small inns. Tell the ryokan when booking.
Combining a ryokan with a city trip
A popular plan is several nights in Tokyo or Kyoto hotels with one or two nights in a ryokan in an onsen town such as Hakone, Kinosaki or the Japanese Alps. Japan's trains make this easy, and luggage forwarding services can send big bags ahead so you travel light.
Budget-friendly alternatives
- Minshuku: family-run guesthouses with simpler rooms and meals.
- Business hotels with public baths: some city hotels have large shared baths.
- Day-use onsen: enjoy hot springs without staying overnight.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Arriving late and missing the set dinner time.
- Not mentioning dietary needs in advance.
- Wearing slippers on tatami.
- Assuming tattoos are fine in shared baths without checking.
- Booking a ryokan in a big city when you want the full hot-spring experience.
The bottom line
A night or two in a ryokan adds a special cultural dimension to a Japan trip. Follow the etiquette, check tattoo and dietary policies, and enjoy the slower pace.
Frequently asked questions
What is a ryokan?
A traditional Japanese inn featuring tatami-mat rooms, futon bedding, yukata robes and often communal or private hot-spring baths, with Japanese meals.
Are ryokan expensive?
They range from affordable family-run inns to luxury properties. Many prices include dinner and breakfast, which adds value.
Can I stay in a ryokan with tattoos?
Some ryokan restrict tattoos in shared baths. Many now allow covered tattoos or offer private baths. Check the policy before booking.
Prices, fees, taxes and booking rules change often and vary by hotel, date and country. Figures in this guide are typical ranges for planning, not quotes. Always confirm the total price and cancellation terms with the hotel or booking site before you pay.
